Once you have a sense for how you want to do it then post over there and explain what you are planning and you'll get lots of great advice. Id suggest starting over on in the 5.0/5.8 Tech Forum. If I were you I'd go and reasearch and ask this question were you are apt to find a much larger population of 5.0 people. They are high speed steel cutters made in sizes ranging from 1 to. They then moved this peice from piston to piston and bolted it in place using the head bolt holes this peice lined up with. Piston Fly Cutters for valve clearances that have changeable rods for different guide sizes. One of the best articles I had read a couple of years ago talked about making a custom cutting tool and then cutting a section out of an old cast iron head just wide enough to cover the valves - something like 4' wide. The key is very careful masking and cleanup. It is not recommended for obvious reasons but absolutely has and can be done. I've seen many people and a few articles that discuss notching the pistons with the engine in the car. HTH a little and let me know if you want to risk cutting the pistons with a die grinder and I'll tell you what to watch out for and how I did it. It seems like it always takes me at least two tries to get the clay to come off right so I can get a good measurement, but make sure you are satisfied with your measurements so you can sleep at night. 030' LESS clearance than you actually have! Use the stock valve springs and clay to check your clearance. Illustrated instructions and necessary hardware included. Made of 356 T-6 Aircraft Quality aluminum with 1 1/2' steel shaft. Can be used with drill press, milling machine or hand drill. I also had an (small) epiphany as I was checking and rechecking clearances after cutting the pistons: The weak spring method leaves about. Use to bore your own cases for larger cylinders or bore and flycut your heads to match. This'll be my first attempt on a Ford motor, however. Now before the 'experts' thrash me for this, I've performed this surgery before on two Chevy motors with no issues - no failures, cracks or add'l carbon buildup in valve reliefs. I also was a little worried about screwing up the valve guides on my brand new heads by augering the pilot around in there.

Put the cutter into the head with some oil on the pilot and bolt it down, making sure one of the blades is hanging at the lowest point. Take masking tape and also cover the coolant holes. I decided I didn't want to spend $300 for one pilot and two cutters - so I cut my own reliefs with a die grinder and a couple of different burs. Take masking tape and tape all around the edges of the piston so nothing can fall into the ring area. Isky would not get back to me on the rental option that is supposed to be available. So I did a compression test and 90 I have the tools and knowledge to rebuild it but. I could only find places to buy the Isky cutting tools and pilot (Summit is one but you can get them cheaper). The B engines, have special pistons, fly cut for valve clearance. Cobrastang, did you use the clay method and valve train components you plan to use on the finished motor - or did you use lightweight checking springs and feeler gauges?

Piston flycut tool